Before I visited Tenby, on the Pembroke coast, I had this vague idea that it was something like Barry Island, on the Glamorgan coast near Cardiff. If you have never heard of Barry Island, it was a Victorian holiday destination for day trippers from Cardiff and the South Wales Valleys. It had a “Pleasure Park” with rides and lots of shops selling rock and candy floss and it also had a Butlins holiday camp but the rides and the holiday camp are long gone now. It has a nice beach but its not as popular as it used to be.
Well, Tenby is nothing like that. It’s tasteful, historic, and enduringly popular. I love Tenby’s real name. That is it’s Welsh name which is “Dinbych-y-pysgod” meaning fortlet of the fish. It still describes the old town well as as it’s solid town walls still survive as well as its harbour. Its a delightful place to visit with pretty Georgian houses and two large beaches.
Tenby has a special place in my heart because in the midst of my PTSD breakdown and recovery I painted a picture of Tenby harbour.
I was very emotionally fragile at the time and I really I enjoyed painting the pastel colours of the harbour buildings. I get a lot of pleasure from colour. Other people got pleasure from it too because it was one of the very first paintings I sold as a semi-professional artist. The collector who bought it later told me that she was going to redecorate her lounge to match the painting! I was so touched by this. I had so little confidence at the time that it meant a great deal to me. I also sold many prints this painting. As you can see I did many paintings of Tenby Harbour but I eventually moved on to other subject matters and different challenges. I particularly focused on people portraits closer to home in Swansea and paintings of Gower peninsula, closer to home.
So last month, I decided that Tenby was overdue a visit. I had been watching the weather forecast for weeks. Eventually the forecast was for a day of wall-to-wall sunshine. The only problem was that it was very cold with a bitter wind. Never mind. I wrapped up well with thermals and two pairs of socks and got up early to catch the 7.50 train from Swansea to Tenby, arriving at 9.30.
I had set off early because I like to catch the morning light with its long shadows. I also wanted to see the harbour at high tide with the boats in the harbour. The only problem was that as soon as arrived at the harbour I could see the the sun was in the “wrong place” and most of the boats had been pulled ashore and covered up! The previous times I had visited Tenby was in the summer, later on in the day.
So, I had to wait. So did. I waited in the way I usually do, by moving. I walked and walked. In the end I walked around Tenby for 6 hours, taking photos of the shadows and the people. Despite it being mid winter it was the school mid term break in England (not in wales) and Tenby was full of families, wrapped up, despite the biting wind, and enjoying the sunshine.
I had chips for lunch watched by three beady-eyed seagulls and a chocolate ice-cream. I had to think about that as it was so cold but in the end I gave in had one – it was delicious. I had intended to catch the 1.40 pm train back to Swansea but i could see that the light was changing and I knew that it was low tide at 4pm so I tried and waited some more. I walked up the habour walked and climbed half way down the steps to take photos of the four or so boats that were in the harbour. It was strange waiting for the tide and light because they eventually changed faster than I thought they would. All of a sudden the tide had retreated far enough for me to walk out into the harbour and take photos of the reflections. Bingo. This was what I was after.
And then, almost miraculously the tide revealed the sandbanks on the far side of the harbour, by the end of the harbour wall and I could gingerly climb down some seaweed-covered steps and see the harbour in it’s full glory. I don’t think I took off my fingerless gloves once in Tenby, and I did appreciate the heating on the little train back home. I just made the 4.40 pm train back to Swansea and get home in daylight.
My day in Tenby was all about patience and waiting for things beyond my control. Looking at this, my most recent painting of Tenby harbour I can see how much my work has changed, and hopefully how much I have recovered from those incredibly difficult times back in 2012-13. The painting is much larger and calmer and more confident than any of those I painted before. Large paintings, almost by definition require confidence. The winter tones are less vivid than the summer ones, despite the bright winter sunshine. I will be back for the summer light.
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18 thoughts on “Waiting for the Tide”
Wow, your patience paid off. I am so glad your paintings got the recognition they deserve. They are so joyful. It is amazing that something so positive can come from a difficult time, but I suppose that is what resilience is.
Thank you, Ali.
These are beautiful, Emma. I think Tenby Reflections 2013 is one of the most colorful works I’ve seen from you thus far, so it surprises me beyond words that you completed it during a very rough time for you. I’m in awe.
Thank you. Oh yes, it was a wonderful contradiction that I painted such cheerful and bright paintings at such a difficult time. They cheered me up. I have toned them down a little in the intervening years much not that much.
I love the last one, Emma, and I’m glad that Tenby has been so fundamental to your recovery. It’s wonderful that a place can do that for you. Thank you for sharing the story. 🙂 🙂
Thank you – its such a jolly little place. Everyone’s happy because they are on holiday – even in winter.
Tenby should get you to illustrate their tourist brochures!
Can you put a word for me, please?
Schitterend resultaat en het maakt mij ook vrolijk
Ik ben blij. Thnak voor uw woorden.
The most recent painting, compared to the earlier ones, seems to have a lot more “focus”. The earlier ones, perhaps because of the conditions they were painted during, seem more hurried–as if you were eager to get as much down on the canvas as possible. I really like the way 2018 guides my eye around almost purposefully, in contrast to the 2013 ones which let me wander on my own volition. Hope that makes some sense! Compare “Tenby Beach” to “Waiting for the Tide” to maybe get a feel for what I’m saying.
I think you read the paintings very well. The earlier ones were smaller and painted quickly, the most recent one took much longer and was much more deliberate in execution. Thank you for your insightful comments, Alli.
Your inspiration is coming through! The paintings from Tenby are BEAUTIFUL!
Thank you, Chris.
[…] red and orange things in wintertime. I previous years it has been red coats on the harbor beach at Tenby, or grandparents buying ice-creams in Brynmill Park. This year it’s the autumnal orange […]
[…] About my visits to Tenby here […]
I love Tenby – I’ve been visiting it most of my life (I’m in my 50’s now) and your paintings of it are so evocative of the place – that’s why the first two of your paintings I bought were of Tenby and Caldey. I love the colours of the harbour and the fact that your painting of it almost resolves itself into a wall of colour.
Thank you Mark. I hope the Tenby and Cladey paintings are still bringing you pleasure!