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Under the Blanket

Ireland was once covered in a massive sheet of ice. Then about ten thousand years ago it retreated and trees and grasses sprang up to cover the rocky landscape. Today those trees are long gone. Farmers came and cleared them about 6,000 years ago and the continual rains from the Atlantic soaked and washed the soil reducing the mineral content making it more acidic. Plants like sphagham moss helped keep the land wet. So now West Donegal is covered in something called blanket bog. Blanket bog is a type of peatland found in only a few parts of the world with cool, wet and, usually, oceanic climates. It covers 3% of the world but contains a third of all the carbon in the world.

I love the blanket bog – it covers vast areas. It is a seemingly empty landscape. On an overcast day it has an exhilerating bleakness. On a sunny day, it hints at what a prehistoric Ireland might have looked like (plus a few wolves and lots of red deer). There are few, if any, paths through the bogland. If you venture on the land in summer it is springy underfoot. Most of it is drained with ditches along the road and narrow bog roads leading to “nowhere”.

Blanket bog in West Donegal
Blanket bog in West Donegal (from N252 on the way to Doochary)

For generations people who lived on the boglands drained the land then cut and dried the peat, also called turf, to burn. This was cheap fuel to cook and heat their homes. In a land with no oil or coal, the turf was essential. The landscape across west Donegal is marked with the long scars of peat banks. Cutting it is back-breaking work. In the past the surface of the bog was mostly cut away by hand using the traditional turf spade or sleán. Further South mechanised extraction is apparently the norm, using chain cutter, digger, sausage, hopper and milling machines. In Donegal, however, it is still cut by hand.

The Irish government used to burn turf on an industrial scale, enough to fuel a couple of power stations, up until very recently, 2020 in fact. People with “turbary rights” can cut and burn sod peat on their land for their own domestic uses but they are not meant to sell it. However with fuel poverty, older people in particular, will buy it to use it in winter. A load of turf may cost as little as 200 Euros (about 230 US dollars) and can last months.

The government is trying to discourage this not only because of the enviromental costs but also because of the pollution it causes. It smells delicious but its smoky and very bad for the lungs, especially if you have asthma.

There are moves to encourage the rewetting of the bogs. Targets have been set by the EUand a few pilot schemes in Donegal and a lot more in the Midlands, have been rolled out, Cloncrow Bog Natural Heritage Area is a great example of a rewetted raised bog. However, much more funding is needed from the government to encourage widespread adoption and to help the 4% of the population for whom turf is their main source of heating.

Scars of turf banks line the landscape
Turf drying in the summer sun - Westr Donegal
Turf drying in the summer sun – West Donegal
Turf bagged up
Bags of turf and Errigal
Wildlife growing in the bogland
Wildlife is abdundant in Donegal, if you look down.

The boglands are abundant with wildlife and have been an important part of Irish culture. Bogs were seen as liminal zones – watery places often are. They were seen as places of both life and death—fertile ground for spirits, fairies, and supernatural beings. The bog was also believed to be the gateway to the Otherworld, where fairies, spirits, and even the dead could cross between realms. Many bog bodies and ancient artifacts were likely put there as ritual offerings to appease gods or supernatural forces.

If you want to look at some bog bodies this site has some good photos. I wont post them here, I never really got over looking at the poor soul in the British Museum (Lindow Man) who died in a Cheshire bog. I was fascinated by his face but couldn’t help thinking he could never imagine his mortal remains being looked at by all and sundry over 2000 years later.

One of the most famous mythical figures associated with the bog is Fionn Mac Cumhaill (Finn McCool), the legendary warrior of the Fianna. Some stories say that he and his warriors roamed the boglands, using them as a hiding place during battles.

Red Deer near Burtonport, Donegal

Bogs have also inspired wonderful poetry. This is my favourite-

The One

Green, blue, yellow and red –
God is down in the swamps and marshes
Sensational as April and almost incred-
ible the flowering of our catharsis.
A humble scene in a backward place
Where no one important ever looked
The raving flowers looked up in the face
Of the One and the Endless, the Mind that has baulked
The profoundest of mortals. A primrose, a violet,
A violent wild iris – but mostly anonymous performers
Yet an important occasion as the Muse at her toilet
Prepared to inform the local farmers
That beautiful, beautiful, beautiful God
Was breathing His love by a cut-away bog.

+ Patrick Kavanagh (One of Ireland’s most famous poets, from Monaghan, d.1967)

Cronashallog Bogcut (Arranmore) – a commission by Emma Cownie

And finally…Seamus Heaney’s Poem “Digging” In 1995 Seamus was awarded the Nobel Prize for literature.

Read about Seamus Heaney’s Bog Poems

NOTE: I did not use AI to research and/or write this and I did not use it to “improve” it. I would rather my writing was human and imperfect.

Read More about Boglands

https://www.nature.scot/landscapes-and-habitats/habitat-types/mountains-heaths-and-bogs/blanket-bog

https://theinformedfarmer.com/blog/tech-giants-invest-in-irish-bog-restoration–a–3-million-initiative

https://theconversation.com/peatland-folklore-lent-us-will-o-the-wisps-and-jack-o-lanterns-and-can-inspire-climate-action-today-170202

https://talesofforgottenirishhistory.substack.com/p/the-bog-of-allen?utm_medium=web

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Termon House Maghery

Termon House, Maghery

Termon House is set above a pebble beach at the north end of Maghery Strand on the West Coast of the Rosses area of Donegal. The elegant white house was most likely built by the Marquis Conyngham or by his predecessor, Montgomery in the 1770’s for the land agent, whose duty it was to collect rent from the local tenants on behalf of the absentee landlord. A Jamaican-born man named Ralph Spence Philips, was in occupancy at Termon House in the 1820s.

Termon House from the Air (Irishlandmark.com)

In 1822 the previous years extremely wet weather rotted all the potatoes in the area which resulted in famine. This was happening across Ireland and around a million individuals came to depend upon government aid during this particular crisis. Government agents in Dublin Castle allocated funds for acquisition of foodstuffs in Ireland, to be distributed to the poor at reduced prices or without cost, and to finance local relief works, such as roads, canals and harbours, or other projects deemed of benefit.

It may well have been Philips who initiated the building of the Famine Walls around the property as a means of feeding the local starving population, although he had no tenants of his own. The Public Works Committee in Dublin Castle, however, rejected Philips application for reimbursement and this meant a personal loss to him of £1500 from paying the labourers at a rate of 1d per day!

Termon House (Dream Ireland image)
The Famine Walls (Go Visit Donegal image)

There is another theory, however, that is that it was the Reverend Valentine Pole Griffith, the Protestant Rector at the height of the Great Famine, 1845-1850, who had the walls built. The Rev Griffith was one of the leading members of the Famine Relief Committee, who worked heroically on behalf of the poor. He set up public works in Maghery, would attend meetings all over the Rosses and write to anyone who he thought could help. The land around Termon House was owned by the Church of Ireland it may well be he who arranged for the massive walls to be built along the road there. On the day we visited it was overcast and my photos do not to justice the scale and extent of the walls.

You can see the famine walls on the right hand side of the house and to the far left side of the outhouses in my painting of Termon House (below). The rocks in the foreground are natural part of the rocky Rosses landscape.

What is undisputed is that this extraordinary and extensive system of walls standing approximately three metres high (10 foot)! The extensive system of tall walls built during this famine around his land is a testament to these hungry builders as they have withstood over 190 years of Atlantic storms.

Today, beautiful Termon House is leased by the Irish Landmark Trust and is available for holiday rental.

More Information

Go Visit Donegal on Facebook

www. maghery.ie/history

Irishlandmark.com

See my paintings of West Donegal here

See My Termon House Maghery Painting here

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A new book cover – “Saoirse”

SAOIRSE by @charleen_hurtubise

“Announcing SAOIRSE by @charleen_hurtubise, a powerful novel set between the United States and Ireland about a woman who runs from her traumatic past and the secrets she carries to survive. Coming February 24, 2026.⁣”

⁣With artwork by me!

SAOIRSE by @charleen_hurtubise
SAOIRSE by @charleen_hurtubise

From Ferry Coll - a painting by Emma Cownie
From Ferry Coll – a painting by Emma Cownie (SOLD)

See more original paintings of Donegal here

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Cruit Lower, Kincasslagh

Cruit Lower, Kincasslagh

Summer in Donegal is full of light. Even if its damp summer there is still lots of light. The northly latitude sees to that. It only seems to get properly dark for a couple of hours after midnight and dawn comes impossibly soon. So its great for painting and getting out and about but the light is not so interesting for photography or sketching, especially if, like me, you like lots of strong shadows. So my paintings are usually based on images that are captured in the autumn months. Otherwise, mornings and evening are best for interesting colours and shadows.

Autumn Light on Cruit Island, Donegal _ E,mma Cownie
Autumn Light on Cruit Island, Donegal _ Emma Cownie SOLD

Cruit Island is one of my favourite places in Donegal. It’s rocky and sparsely populated but is accessible by a handy bridge.

Donegal Cottages, Cruit Island _Emma Cownie
Donegal Cottages, Cruit Island _Emma Cownie SOLD
Over Cruit Island by Emma Cownie SOLD

We have driven past the collection of farm buildings at Cruit Lower many times but I only managed to capture an image I liked enough to paint this spring. It was an uncharacteristically warm and sunny run of days this May.

The farm has long fascinated me as you have to drive through it. These through roads through farms are not unusal in rural areas in Ireland (and Wales). Informal tracks through a collection of farm buildings, now divided by tarmac.

Lower Cruit was for sale last year and I had a good look at it online. It was interesting as you can only glimpse some of the buildings from the road. I cant remember how much the asking price was. Getting on for a million Euro, maybe. Way out the reach of a poor artist! You got a lot for that; a collection of beautiful historic buildings (some pre-famine era) and access to a beautiful beach and some really incredible views of the West of Donegal. Here are some of the photos from the website. I dont know who bought it but I really hope they look after the beautiful old buildings.

Cruit Lower From the Air
Cruit Lower with Beach behind
Prefamine house at Cruit Lower
Prefamine house at Cruit Lower
Cruit Lower – the view you cant see from the road!

More information about Cruit Lower

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/40904015/cruit-lower-co-donegal

1901 census information http://donegalgenealogy.com/1901cruitlowr.htm

Kinclasslagh wikipedia

https://www.donegalcottageholidays.com/cruitisland-cruitisland

https://www.booking.com/city/ie/kincaslough.en-gb.html

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“Fast” painting

Near Rossbeg

“Is this a fast painting or a slow one?” My husband asks.

This question gives me pause.

“A fast one” I reply.

Painting of Portnoo, Donegal by Emma Cownie
Portnoo Colours (Donegal) by Emma Cownie

My paintings usually take days to complete. On average three days. A smaller one quicker. Commissions are still “slow” paintings.

Lately, though I have taken to completing paintings in a single sitting. This may well be several hours, but its a single sitting.

Rocky Ground Bun An Inver
Rocky Ground Bun An Inver by Emma Cownie

The results are more sponanteous-looking. The process feels slightly out of control. Often I think “I have bitten off more than I can chew” here. But I stick with it. Years of painting have taught me to ignore the impulse to give up. To push on, even when when it looks a bit ugly.

There may well be things wrong; colours or details but they dont matter too much. I will alter them if they really bug me. Mostly I dont. The brush strokes are broken and incomplete. In some places they are deliberately rough. The canvas shows through in places. Often I am uncertain if I like the painting when I stop. Its usually a bit of a surprise. I have to fight my perfectionism.

Painting of Narin Donegal by Emma Cownie
Narin Rise, Donegal by Emma Cownie

I am racing ahead of my thoughts. Ahead of my critical mind that tells me its not good enough and to keep painting. Now I refuse to listen and keep going. It’s intense and exhausting.

Over Cruit Island, Donegal and painting by Emma Cownie
Over Cruit Island, Donegal and painting by Emma Cownie

My father died in June this year. He was 92. My heart is broken. He was a lovely, funny and kind man and I miss him terribly.

Me and my father
Me and my father (and Tiffany the cat)

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Arranmore Swansong

Gortgar,Arranmore (Donegal)

We have been living with a lot of uncertainty since summer last year. This is why I have found it difficult to write regularly. Last summer, Biddy, our aged Collie-cross was so frail I didn’t come to Donegal with her. I didn’t think the long bumpy car journeys would be fair on her. The vets are an hour away. She was pts in November last year. It was an honour to look after her in her final days and I still miss her. I will write about Effie in a separate post, soon.

Artie and Biddy
Artie the cat and Biddy 2023
Biddy
Biddy in 2019 (Look I have found a stick for you to throw!)

It is with a heavy heart that I say that we are planning to leave Donegal. It’s a difficult place to live without family near by. It’s a stunning place and the recent sunshine has really highlighted that. It is possibly the most beautiful landscape I have ever seen and I will be very sad to leave. I am not entirely sure where we are going. I will let you know when we know.

In the meantime, I have painted a series of small paintings of Arranmore Island.

Gortgar,Arranmore (Donegal)
Gortgar,Arranmore (Donegal)
Painting of Arranmore Island by Emma Cownie
Children at Play – Arranmore Island by Emma Cownie
Arranmore Huddle (Donegal)
Arranmore Huddle (Donegal)
Inishkeeragh View, Arranmore (Donegal)
Inishkeeragh View, Arranmore (Donegal)

The Quiet Road, Arranmore (Donegal)
The Quiet Road, Arranmore (Donegal)

If you are interested in buying an Arranmore painting you can here: https://emmafcownie.com/product-category/paintings-ireland-emma-cownie/donegal-paintings-emma-cownie/donegal-islands

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Jacksons Art Prize – Extended long list!

I am delighted to announce that I have made Jacksons Art’s extended long list for their 2024 Art Prize. The list was announced on 14th but as I didnt get an email from Jacksons, I assumed I hadn’t made the cut. So imagine my delight when I find a “Congratulations” email that isn’t telling me I have won a load of bitcoin has arrvived in my inbox.

It reads “With 12,964 entries submitted, from 129 countries, the selection process was incredibly competitive. As an artist on the Extended Longlist of 3,168 works, you are in the top 25% of entries. The full list is available to view here. ” I am on page 5 if you want to look.

Carn
Carn (Donegal) – Bridge Street in Carndonagh, Donegal

Update

The excitement only lasted a morning. Turns out that my email provider had hidden the “Congratulations” in a folder it calls “Promotions” which is mostly emails from Art suppliers. It had been there for a week before I spotted it. Strange how I had no problems seeing the “Thank you for Taking Part” email yesterday afternoon. Oh, well.

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Flying Fruit Bowl Podcast

Flying Fruit Bowl podcast

I am delighted and honoured to have been interviewed by Aaron S (@aaronsehmar on Instagram) for his Flying Fruit Bowl podcast. If you haven’t come across his podcast and website check it out – he’s a thoughtful and insightful interviewer who is a very talented photographer in his own right. He’s interviewed a diverse range of talented artists. There is a lots to discover. It’s like a breath of fresh air.

Flying Fruit Bowl Instagram account

Flying Fruit Bowl website

Flying Fruit Bowl podcast

DIRECT DOWNLOAD: https://open.acast.com/public/streams/65a7aa539b536b00171d8ee3/episodes/67acc03e9c6f7f7f2859bc1a.mp3

APPLE MUSIC: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/the-flying-fruit-bowl/id1548279888

SPOTIFY: https://open.spotify.com/episode/02nik9zJGEU7zLMtPzIjih

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 Bannau Brycheiniog (the Brecon Beacons)

Table Mountain, Crickhowell by Emma Cownie

I have been painting  Bannau Brycheiniog – the official name for the Brecon Beacons since 2023 – for a while now. Living in flat Cardiff as a student for a decade, I used to enjoy seeing Carphilly Mountain off in the distance. At weekends, I would catch the local train to Taffs Wells and climb Garth Mountain (Subject of the 1995 Hugh Grant film “The Englishman who Went up a Hill but down a Mountain“). Those mountains gave me a sense of very different landscape nearby.

The Mountains of south and mid-Wales was my favourite destination for days out and holidays. When I first started painting seriously, the Beacons were a favourite subject matter. When I used to sell prints on Artfinder back in 2013, “Crick in the Snow” was very popular. I loved painting the lines of hedges and trees. I have a fascination with layers of things – fields, hedgerows, houses. I think I enjoy seeing them spread out at a distance. It gives me a better sense of the toptography of the physical landscape. How the land undulates; rises and falls. I can look at a 2D images a create a 3D image in my mind’s eye.

Crick in the Snow
Crick in the Snow 2013

I have explored different approaches to this subject matter. I have used a design-style – where the colours are flat and very simplied.

Oil Painting of Brecon Beacons
The Distant Beacons 2015
Painting of Pen Y Fan
Autumn Beacons 2014

To a more less-stylish and realistic approach, with softer colours.

Beacons painting commission by Emma Cownie
Beacons painting commission by Emma Cownie

To a semi-realist approach with elements of stylished flat colours.

Brecon Beacons painting commission
Three peaks – Brecon Beacons painting commission

Recently, I was drawn to painting Wales again. I was looking to paint small landscapes using acrylic gouache. Using a different medium produced interesting results. The Acrylic Gouach is chalky in nature and tends to result in pastel shades. I like this. I found that the lighter colours (pale yellows and light greens) needed several layers to get the strength of colour I wanted. Each painting was a surprise to me. They did not turn out the way I expected but I liked them beacuse the softer colours were more respresentative of the landscape than the oils I used in the past.

Recent paintings of Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) – in Acrylic Gouache.

Hazy Beacons - Emma Cownie
Hazy Beacons – Emma Cownie

Distant Sugar Loaf
Distant Sugar Loaf
Table Mountain, Crickhowell by Emma Cownie
Table Mountain, Crickhowell by Emma Cownie
Summer in Mid Wales
Summer in Mid Wales
Mid Wales
Mid Wales

Buy  Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) paintings here

Find out More

https://www.exploringmidwales.co.uk

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New Year Sale – 30% off

30% off website

To Celebrate the New Year I am giving 30% off all work on my website – to get the discount you have to enter a code at the checkout. Where’s the code? Join my email list and it will be sent to you, automatically. The sale ends on 15th January.

View from the Pier (Portnoo)-Emma Cownie
View from the Pier (Portnoo)-Emma Cownie SOLD

If you have already joined my mailing list and haven’t had my latest newsletter with the sale code check your SPAM folder.