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Ardara – One of the best (and most colourful) villages in Ireland !

ardara 1

Ardara is pronouced “Arr-drahh” sort of prirate-like and not “Ar-dara”. It means Height of the Fort in Irish. I have heard Irish people (on the National TV weather forcast) get it wrong but they lived in far away Dublin. It is a busy little village near the Bluestack mountains in Donegal. Just over 700 people live there but thousands visit, especially in the summer time and many more pass through on the main road from North to South Donegal.

Map of Donegal – Ardara is to the South
Artie our cat from Ardara
Artie our cat from Ardara

Our cat, Artie, was once a stray in Ardara until the Animals in Need Donegal charity, trapped him, neutured him and found him a home with us. They had prioritised rehoming him rather releasing him back onto the mean streets of Ardara because long-haired cats find it difficult to get dry after rain and so they don’t live very long. Thankfully, he’s living a cushy dry indoor life with us and I hope he has a long life ahead of him.

Ardara’s main street rolls down a long hill and turns right – then that’s about it. Before you know it you are back in the countryside. Like a lot of Donegal townlands, or villages, it is small but condensed. There is a lot in a small area. We had previously sat at a junction outside Ardara for 20 minutes and watched as what seemed like hundreds of tractors “zoom” past on a “Tractor Run”, a popular rural fun raising activity in Ireland (and Wales too). When I say “zoom” I mean relatively speaking, as a lot of the tractors were vintage ones that did not really zoom so much as chugg past.

The main street is dotted with lots of cafes, bars and wool/tweed shops. Ardara people are very friendly and welcoming. This is a regional centre for the dyeing and weaving of Donegal wool. This seemed to rub off choice of the colours of the walls of the village itself. The villages in the south of Donegal are a lot more colourful than the ones in the north. They favour white houses. I don’t know why, but I was surprised by the vibrancy of the colours of wool and cloths. They were the exactly same as the colours you see all around your in the Donegal landscape: greens of the grass, browns of the bogs, the pinks, purples, yellows and oranges of the flowers. Some cloths were flecked with an array of lush colours. As an artist it was very inspirational to see these colours.

A couple of years ago we visited the Triona Visitor Centre where a very patient lady answered a lot of my questions about weaving. There is also Campbell’s, Eddie Doherty’s and John Molloy’s to the south of the village. I would happily taken armfuls of coats and jumpers but in the end we limited ourselves to a tweed flat cap for Seamas and a pair of Donegal socks for me! Last of the big spenders, eh? This little village is well worth a visit and the list of upcoming festivals it hosts gives a good excuse call by if you are ever in the north of Ireland!

See more of my paintings of West Donegal here and Arranmore here

Find out More about Ardara

https://www.welovedonegal.com/ardara.html

https://www.govisitdonegal.com/things-to-do/places-to-see/ardara-heritage-town

https://www.donegalcottageholidays.com/join/images-of-ardara/

https://www.ardaradistillery.com/discover-ardara

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Three Donegal Paintings

Three Donegal Paintings by Emma Cownie

Grief has made me stupid. I struggle with new or complicated things. I am really struggling with writing anything longer than a couple of sentences. WordPress keeps changing how it works too.

 So I am just going to present you with three paintings of beautiful Donegal I have finished recently. I have a small collection of Gower paintings to come too. 

Waiting for the Tide, Rossbeg (Donegal)
Waiting for the Tide, Rossbeg (Donegal)
Misty Morning on Rossbeg (Donegal) by Emma Cownie
Misty Morning on Rossbeg (Donegal) by Emma Cownie
Quiet on Arranmore, Donegal by Emma Cownie
Quiet on Arranmore, Donegal by Emma Cownie
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Country Road, Winter Sun (Inishowen, Donegal)

Country Road, Winter Sun (Inishowen, Donegal) by Emma Cownie

Today is the shortest day of the year. Its very dark up north here. The morning are very dark yet I find it hard to sleep. When the sun appears it illuminates and reveals a verdent but slummering landscape. I am always looking for flashes of red to paint in the deepest winter. In the past it might be a coat, or a door. Today it is a red roof on an old stone cottage. The old houses are disappearing fast here.

This part of Inishowen near Dunaff feels remote. Maybe that’s because we drove through up and through the Urris Hills and Mamore gap to get here. It’s all small long roads like this one. Its tucked away in a north western corner of Inishowen, Malin Head is to the north, close by. I look forward to the days slowing getting longer.

https://emmafcownie.com/product/country-road-winter-sun-inishowen-donegal/
Country Road, Winter Sun (Donegal) by Emma Cownie

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Patterned Fields, Rossbeg (Donegal)

Patterned Fields, Rossbeg by Emma Cownie
Patterned Fields, Rossbeg by Emma Cownie
Patterned Fields, Rossbeg by Emma Cownie

One of the joys of acrylic gouache is that it dries very quickly and is opaque – so it lends itself to this sort of mark making.

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Dunree Head, Donegal

Dunree Head Donegal

 Dun Fhraoigh in Irish means, “Fort of the Heather” – it has been a fort at Dunree for thousands of years, since the Bronze age (over 4000 years ago). When you see the chunk of rock that the “modern” day fort (well Napoleonic era) for has been built on, you understand why.

Its a big chunk of rock! (photo credit: Emma Cownie)

Photo Credi t: The Artillery Club of Ireland
Aeriel View of Dunree Head (Google Maps)
Aeriel View of Dunree Head (Google Maps)

Its location, on the cliffs of Dunree Head, is great for observing and controlling ships moving up and down the majestic Lough Swilly, one of Ireland’s three glacial fjords.

The English built this sturdy fort on the chunk of rock c. 1812-3 with a draw-bridge! The enemy back then, as readers of Jane Austen will know, was the French forces of Napolean Bonaparte. (The story of Jane Austen’s Donegal nieces is worthy of a BBC/RTE mini-series in its own right; linking Kent, Ramelton and Gweedore). The French had attempted landing in Lough Swilly in 1798 with a force of about 8,000 men, which was repelled at sea. The Royal Navy anchored ships in the Lough. There were a lot of big guns here, nine 24-pounders were in 1817.  There was once a Martello-type in the centre of the old fort but it was demolished c. 1900, as it obstructed the field of fire from the new fort on the summit of Dunree Hill.

Although the Irish Free State was created in 1922 and they followed (and still follow) a policy of political neutrality, the British army did not leave Dunree until 1938. This was because Lough Swilly was a “Treaty Port”, and it remained under British military control for defensive purposes.  During the Second World War, it was under control of the Irish Army and it played an integral role in safeguarding Ireland when a number of anti aircraft guns were added to site. The waters off the coast of Donegal are under threat today from Russia’s so-called “shadow fleet”.

I am not particularly interested in military hardware, although I know plenty of people in the world are. I have not been in the military museum. What did take my interest, however, were the barracks. There were brick buildings but also a lot of decaying iron huts that the gunners had lived in. I am nosy and I enjoy seeing how people lived. Although, frustratingly, most of that has gone. There tiny glimpses; brick chimney stacks, the odd rusting bedstead but not a lot.

 

Army Barracks – Brick and iron. Photo Credit: James Henry Johnston
Dunree Army Huts: Photo credit James Henry Johnston
Dunree Barrack Huts: Photo credit James Henry Johnston

A little further up (a steep) hill from Fort Dunree and the barrack buildings is Dunree Lighthouse. This a puzzling lighthouse. I am used to lighthouses being built atop of great pillars like the one across the Swilly water at Fanad.

The one at Dunree, however, has no tower. It doesnt need one. The light is at ground level. The “ground” however its up high on the cliff way above the Fort. A lantern attached to a house for the Lighthouse Keeper was built, and the light established on 15th January 1876. The light was a non flashing one with a two wick oil burner. Sadly, for the lighthouse keeper, technology did away with his job in 1927 when this light was replaced in December 1927 with an “unwatched acetylene with a carbide generating plant attached to the station”. The light was later converted to electricity in 1969. It must have been a great place to live. 

Lighthouse at Fort Dunree (Donegal)
Lighthouse at Fort Dunree (Donegal) – View from the east. The litchen covered stone wall is testiment to the clean air of Donegal

The lighthouse keeper’s house has a spectacular view across the Lough. Its built of local rubble stone masonry, this building retains its early form and character. Its visual appeal and expression is enhanced by the retention of much of its original fabric including timber sliding sash windows. Both the house and the lantern were built by McClelland & Co. of Derry. The simple outbuilding and boundary walls are very elegant too.

From the outhouse towards the lighthouse

 

The views at Dunree are spectacular. Lough Swilly is quite majestic, even on an overcast day.  Perhaps, it’s particularly dramatic on a overcast day with the shifting light and colours. You can walk up Dunree Hill and look over towards the Urris Hills and Dunree Bay (Crummies Bay).

There is a regular bus service from Buncrana, a coffee house, museum and public toilet. It might be a good idea to go before they start work on revamping the place!

See more paintings of Inishowen Peninsula here

Read More

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/40901824/dunree-fort-dunree-donegal

https://www.donegallive.ie/news/inishowen/1589360/decision-on-12-5m-fort-dunree-tourism-project-due-early-next-year.html

https://www.govisitdonegal.com/blog/january-2024/between-waves-and-war

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Termon House Maghery

Termon House, Maghery

Termon House is set above a pebble beach at the north end of Maghery Strand on the West Coast of the Rosses area of Donegal. The elegant white house was most likely built by the Marquis Conyngham or by his predecessor, Montgomery in the 1770’s for the land agent, whose duty it was to collect rent from the local tenants on behalf of the absentee landlord. A Jamaican-born man named Ralph Spence Philips, was in occupancy at Termon House in the 1820s.

Termon House from the Air (Irishlandmark.com)

In 1822 the previous years extremely wet weather rotted all the potatoes in the area which resulted in famine. This was happening across Ireland and around a million individuals came to depend upon government aid during this particular crisis. Government agents in Dublin Castle allocated funds for acquisition of foodstuffs in Ireland, to be distributed to the poor at reduced prices or without cost, and to finance local relief works, such as roads, canals and harbours, or other projects deemed of benefit.

It may well have been Philips who initiated the building of the Famine Walls around the property as a means of feeding the local starving population, although he had no tenants of his own. The Public Works Committee in Dublin Castle, however, rejected Philips application for reimbursement and this meant a personal loss to him of £1500 from paying the labourers at a rate of 1d per day!

Termon House (Dream Ireland image)
The Famine Walls (Go Visit Donegal image)

There is another theory, however, that is that it was the Reverend Valentine Pole Griffith, the Protestant Rector at the height of the Great Famine, 1845-1850, who had the walls built. The Rev Griffith was one of the leading members of the Famine Relief Committee, who worked heroically on behalf of the poor. He set up public works in Maghery, would attend meetings all over the Rosses and write to anyone who he thought could help. The land around Termon House was owned by the Church of Ireland it may well be he who arranged for the massive walls to be built along the road there. On the day we visited it was overcast and my photos do not to justice the scale and extent of the walls.

You can see the famine walls on the right hand side of the house and to the far left side of the outhouses in my painting of Termon House (below). The rocks in the foreground are natural part of the rocky Rosses landscape.

What is undisputed is that this extraordinary and extensive system of walls standing approximately three metres high (10 foot)! The extensive system of tall walls built during this famine around his land is a testament to these hungry builders as they have withstood over 190 years of Atlantic storms.

Today, beautiful Termon House is leased by the Irish Landmark Trust and is available for holiday rental.

More Information

Go Visit Donegal on Facebook

www. maghery.ie/history

Irishlandmark.com

See my paintings of West Donegal here

See My Termon House Maghery Painting here

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Cruit Lower, Kincasslagh

Cruit Lower, Kincasslagh

Summer in Donegal is full of light. Even if its damp summer there is still lots of light. The northly latitude sees to that. It only seems to get properly dark for a couple of hours after midnight and dawn comes impossibly soon. So its great for painting and getting out and about but the light is not so interesting for photography or sketching, especially if, like me, you like lots of strong shadows. So my paintings are usually based on images that are captured in the autumn months. Otherwise, mornings and evening are best for interesting colours and shadows.

Autumn Light on Cruit Island, Donegal _ E,mma Cownie
Autumn Light on Cruit Island, Donegal _ Emma Cownie SOLD

Cruit Island is one of my favourite places in Donegal. It’s rocky and sparsely populated but is accessible by a handy bridge.

Donegal Cottages, Cruit Island _Emma Cownie
Donegal Cottages, Cruit Island _Emma Cownie SOLD
Over Cruit Island by Emma Cownie SOLD

We have driven past the collection of farm buildings at Cruit Lower many times but I only managed to capture an image I liked enough to paint this spring. It was an uncharacteristically warm and sunny run of days this May.

The farm has long fascinated me as you have to drive through it. These through roads through farms are not unusal in rural areas in Ireland (and Wales). Informal tracks through a collection of farm buildings, now divided by tarmac.

Lower Cruit was for sale last year and I had a good look at it online. It was interesting as you can only glimpse some of the buildings from the road. I cant remember how much the asking price was. Getting on for a million Euro, maybe. Way out the reach of a poor artist! You got a lot for that; a collection of beautiful historic buildings (some pre-famine era) and access to a beautiful beach and some really incredible views of the West of Donegal. Here are some of the photos from the website. I dont know who bought it but I really hope they look after the beautiful old buildings.

Cruit Lower From the Air
Cruit Lower with Beach behind
Prefamine house at Cruit Lower
Prefamine house at Cruit Lower
Cruit Lower – the view you cant see from the road!

More information about Cruit Lower

https://www.buildingsofireland.ie/buildings-search/building/40904015/cruit-lower-co-donegal

1901 census information http://donegalgenealogy.com/1901cruitlowr.htm

Kinclasslagh wikipedia

https://www.donegalcottageholidays.com/cruitisland-cruitisland

https://www.booking.com/city/ie/kincaslough.en-gb.html

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“Fast” painting

Near Rossbeg

“Is this a fast painting or a slow one?” My husband asks.

This question gives me pause.

“A fast one” I reply.

Painting of Portnoo, Donegal by Emma Cownie
Portnoo Colours (Donegal) by Emma Cownie

My paintings usually take days to complete. On average three days. A smaller one quicker. Commissions are still “slow” paintings.

Lately, though I have taken to completing paintings in a single sitting. This may well be several hours, but its a single sitting.

Rocky Ground Bun An Inver
Rocky Ground Bun An Inver by Emma Cownie

The results are more sponanteous-looking. The process feels slightly out of control. Often I think “I have bitten off more than I can chew” here. But I stick with it. Years of painting have taught me to ignore the impulse to give up. To push on, even when when it looks a bit ugly.

There may well be things wrong; colours or details but they dont matter too much. I will alter them if they really bug me. Mostly I dont. The brush strokes are broken and incomplete. In some places they are deliberately rough. The canvas shows through in places. Often I am uncertain if I like the painting when I stop. Its usually a bit of a surprise. I have to fight my perfectionism.

Painting of Narin Donegal by Emma Cownie
Narin Rise, Donegal by Emma Cownie

I am racing ahead of my thoughts. Ahead of my critical mind that tells me its not good enough and to keep painting. Now I refuse to listen and keep going. It’s intense and exhausting.

Over Cruit Island, Donegal and painting by Emma Cownie
Over Cruit Island, Donegal and painting by Emma Cownie

My father died in June this year. He was 92. My heart is broken. He was a lovely, funny and kind man and I miss him terribly.

Me and my father
Me and my father (and Tiffany the cat)

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Arranmore Swansong

Gortgar,Arranmore (Donegal)

We have been living with a lot of uncertainty since summer last year. This is why I have found it difficult to write regularly. Last summer, Biddy, our aged Collie-cross was so frail I didn’t come to Donegal with her. I didn’t think the long bumpy car journeys would be fair on her. The vets are an hour away. She was pts in November last year. It was an honour to look after her in her final days and I still miss her. I will write about Effie in a separate post, soon.

Artie and Biddy
Artie the cat and Biddy 2023
Biddy
Biddy in 2019 (Look I have found a stick for you to throw!)

It is with a heavy heart that I say that we are planning to leave Donegal. It’s a difficult place to live without family near by. It’s a stunning place and the recent sunshine has really highlighted that. It is possibly the most beautiful landscape I have ever seen and I will be very sad to leave. I am not entirely sure where we are going. I will let you know when we know.

In the meantime, I have painted a series of small paintings of Arranmore Island.

Gortgar,Arranmore (Donegal)
Gortgar,Arranmore (Donegal)
Painting of Arranmore Island by Emma Cownie
Children at Play – Arranmore Island by Emma Cownie
Arranmore Huddle (Donegal)
Arranmore Huddle (Donegal)
Inishkeeragh View, Arranmore (Donegal)
Inishkeeragh View, Arranmore (Donegal)

The Quiet Road, Arranmore (Donegal)
The Quiet Road, Arranmore (Donegal)

If you are interested in buying an Arranmore painting you can here: https://emmafcownie.com/product-category/paintings-ireland-emma-cownie/donegal-paintings-emma-cownie/donegal-islands

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New Year Sale – 30% off

30% off website

To Celebrate the New Year I am giving 30% off all work on my website – to get the discount you have to enter a code at the checkout. Where’s the code? Join my email list and it will be sent to you, automatically. The sale ends on 15th January.

View from the Pier (Portnoo)-Emma Cownie
View from the Pier (Portnoo)-Emma Cownie SOLD

If you have already joined my mailing list and haven’t had my latest newsletter with the sale code check your SPAM folder.